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HOTT - Undead Horde

While I was working on my DBA Early Imperial Romans I also started work on any army for Hordes of the Things, a spin-off from DBA geared more towards fantasy or science fiction armies.  For the upcoming club game we are using G. Branco’s New Army Lists.  These lists are geared towards giving a greater theme to what is a very generic game relative to it’s ancestors.  The list I am using:

UNDEAD

nor dead nor alive, led by a powerful wizard. Reward may be eternal rest.

Mandatory Units: 1x Magician; 3x Hordes.
Maximum Units: 1x Magician; 2x Knights; 12x Hordes.
Unavailable Units: Airboat; Cleric; Dragon (brittle undead dragons are behemoths); God; Hero; Paladin.

There is still a lot of room for flexibility in this army so I decided to pick up a variety of units.  Although HOTT doesn’t make the same distinctions as DBA ( 3Bw vs. 4Bw ) I’ll be describing the units using the more specific terminology.

1x Magician - Lich Lord
I’ve used a 28mm model for the Lich Lord.  I’m not sure exactly what the figure was, I think an Efreet.  Unfortunately I tossed out the packaging before writing this article.  I think any wizard-like figure will do for this army.

6x 5Hd - Skeletal Horde
The rest of my figures are from Black Raven Foundry and purchased from Old Glory 15s. At 1pt each and room for 12 in the army list I could have painted a lot more, but I decided 6 was enough.  I prefer a bit more variety in my army.

2x 2Kn - Skeletal Knights
I built the maximum number of Knights the army list would allow.

1x 4Cb , 2x 4Bw - Skeletal Archers
HOTT does not make the distinction (as previously mentioned) between Crossbows and Bows, but the figures I purchased came with both so why not use them.  I prefer to have the same pose on an entire stand to show well ordered units.

4x 4Sp - Skeletal Spear
Here I differed a little, showing each unit of spear with a “Captain”.  I did this because I didn’t think the standing spear figure looked similar enough to the others (The spear has teeth).  Plus I didn’t have 4 of each of the other kind so would have to have done 4x 3Sp, which isn’t a HOTT troop type.

2x 2Sn - Wraiths
Wraiths as sneakers, good for attacking the opponents key units (General or Stronghold).

2x 3Wb - Ghouls
Included to give some more non-skeletons to the army as well as some flexibility to unit types.

Undead Horde
The full Horde laid out with the “stronghold”, which in this case is just a graveyard.  So far Strongholds have not been my forte, with several aborted attempts to come up with something better, this is the fall-back.

Hordes of the Things Rulebook (PDF)

DBA – II/56 – Early Imperial Romans

Like many new DBA players I decided the best way to get started was with one of the Army Boxes by Corvus Belli. For my first army I picked the Early Imperial Roman box.  I chose this army mainly for being aggressive, and because I am familiar enough with the period to be interested in it.  From what I’ve read on other DBA blogs, the Early Imperial Roman army is fairly common starting point.
The makeup of the army is as follows:

1x3Cv or 4Bd (Gen), 1x3Cv, 1x3Cv or 2LH or 4Bw or 2Ps, 4x4Bd, 4x4Ax, 1xArt

I decided to paint my army as traditionally as I could.  The shields are my own designs but loosely based on some examples I found.

cards

Tip: Keeping track of painting schemes

Originally Posted: March 09, 2010

One of the challenges of painting miniatures is going back to add to a set you’ve painted a long time ago.  It can be very hard to remember which paint manufacturer, let alone which shade, was used for a given model.  I’ll never be able to replicate the paint job on more models than I care to name, all because I didn’t have a system in place.  When I started out I just didn’t think about the need to possibly repair or add to models later on. Once I realized I was going to be in this hobby for the long haul I decided on developing a system for recalling what paints I had used on what models. Using Index Cards came out of my earlier attempts to keep track of all my paints by creating large sheets of paint swatches.  Scaling down allows me to keep a well organized library of paint sets by era, unit, anything I desire.

I’ve chosen 4×6 glossy photo paper as my “card” for it’s ability to render the paint colour accurately and without bleeding through to the back of the paper.  With that you just need to note what part and what paint you’ve used.  Because of the various manufacturers of paints I’ve devised a shorthand to identify them:

VJ = Vallejo Model Colour
VG = Vallejo Game Colour
P3 = Privateer Press P3
RP = Reaper
CD = Citadel (The New GW Pots)
GW = Games Workshop (Older Pots)

Hope whatever system you’ve devised works as well for you.