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Travel Commands & Colors Ancients

Originally Posted: February 16, 2010

Commands and Colors: Ancients is a great game and system by Richard Borg available from GMT Games. It depicts battles in the ancient world from 3000BC to 400AD of varying scale. Much more can be said and is at BoardGameGeek.com, so I’ll let the great content there speak for the game.

For me the only real downside to C&C:Ancients for me is the portability: the base game has over 340 5/8″ wooden blocks, and there are currently 6 expansions for the base game. While not horrible to carry, it is a touch on the heavy side so it’s only likely to make it to the away table if pre-planned.

The result? Shown above is my attempt to make a C&C:Ancients Travel Edition.

The board is hand-made in Photoshop, the pieces are scanned from the originals and shrunk in Photoshop. For scale the hexes are 1.5″ wide making the whole map 8″x12″. The map is laser printed and mounted to flexible sheet steel available from Litko Aerosystems, makers of many find gaming bits and pieces. The terrain hexes are mounted on flexible sheet magnet.

For the counters I had to go a slightly different direction because the magnets have only so much strength and stacking too many of them can have unwanted results. The game uses a number of blocks to measure the current unit strength: 4 blocks equals a 4 strength unit. In order to accomodate the same function in a travel edition I had to employ the method used in many other block games: each side of the counter represents the current strength, the side facing the opponent being the current strength. For example the Medium (blue triangle) horseman above is strength 3. In order to make it easier to handle the counters I affixed them to artboard before affixing that to the magnet.

C&C:Ancients.net
C&C:Ancients Living Rules (the latest and greatest)

Naval_Scales

Naval Miniatures

Originally Posted: September 27, 2009

One of the things that can be overwhelming when trying to get in to a new area of miniature gaming is understanding the various scales and costs involved.

When I decided to expand my collection to include WWII naval I came up against just such a barrier.  To make things much easier on myself I decided to buy a few of the same ships form different manufacturers and in different scales.

One of the factors is what are the models made of?

Plastic: Axis & Allies War at Sea models are plastic, and this gives them only a medium level of detail despite being the largest scale (covered here).  In addition some ships come warped, either from cold or heat, and while there are methods to fix them, they can be time consuming.

Resin: Panzerschffe models use resin which is slightly harder than just plastic.  An increasingly popular choice for models as the price of metal soars.  You can achieve a fair amount of detail in resin, but some pieces can be brittle.

GHQ and Skytrex/Davco use metal, usually what’s called non-lead pewter or white metal.  Metal casts are very durable, and can vary wildly in level of detail and construction.  Older moulds tend to have excessive flashing which then needs to be filed off.  Too much detail can also be very tricky to handle as guns or masts break.

Before I get to the ships I just wanted to add a note about 1/6000 scale.  I didn’t include it here because it’s another thing entirely.  Ships are quite small and the level of detail needed isn’t as much.  At that scale it’s much more about the sheer number of ships you’re able to field.  As well, there aren’t as many options from who to buy.

H.M.S. Ark Royal

$3.00 1/8000 Axis&Allies War at Sea
$6.00 1/2400 Panzerschiffe
£1.70 1/3000 Skytrex/Davco

Of the three the Panzershiffe is the clear winner in my book.  Here the larger scale is nice, but the Skytrex Ark Royal is very rounded on the edges and clearly a mould in need of some work.  Hard to pick out here but the deck is pitted.  Aircraft carriers however need less detail, and the PS still ekes some nice detail out.  1/2400 is a much more expensive scale however, and a bigger play area is required.  Those are two factors that should definitely be taken in to account.

H.M.S.Hood

$13.50 1/2400 GHQ
$5.00 1/2400 Panzerschiffe
£1.70 1/3000 Skytrex/Davco

You really are getting what you’re paying for here.  GHQ Models are almost insane in the level of detail they reproduce at this scale.  There’s really no contest between them and any others. Here you can see that for capitol ships, the Skytrex has more detail than the larger Panzerschiffe model, even at 1/2 the price.  If money is a concern 1/3000 becomes very tempting for this reason.  For me the Panzerschiffe is the loser in this comparison.

H.M.S. Queen Elizabeth

$5.00 1/2400 Panzerschiffe
£1.20 1/3000 Skytrex/Davco

Here it’s a bit tougher call.  This model is another that needs some TLC from Skytrex, whereas the Panzerschiffe model has a reasonable amount of detail.  I didn’t have the Q.E. in GHQ when I took this shot, but you can guess the level of detail and price difference. 

Conclusion

Personally I like detail and ended up purchasing mainly GHQ models.  Even though they’re 3x the price they will last a long time, and look great.  Not being brought out at conventions however as these are strictly for my hands only.  I also purchased a few boxes of 1/6000 both to make for some easier painting, and to have fleets which were more complete in overall range.

What you get will largely depend on your wallet, and how much detail you need.  At tabletop distances you don’t need as much as GHQ offers to have a good tim.  If the ruleset you’re using is fun you won’t even notice.

Liars_Dice

Liar’s Dice

Originally Posted: May 09, 2009

This is a board I made for Liar’s Dice , a quick and dirty little filler game that’s great if you have enough dice, and some time between games. 

Each player gets 5 dice and secretly rolls.  Then going around the table each player has to ‘Bid’ how many of what type of die amount is under everyone’s hand/cup.  6’s are wildcards.  In each round there comes a point where a player is either forced to call what they assume must be a bluff, or bluff themselves and then risk being called out.  There’s a little more to it but the full description available at the link above has it all. 

Full-size image on flickr